The Wax Butter Technology

We all know that naturalness is no longer just a trend, it is a prerequisite for any new cosmetic product launch. Indeed, it is one of the main consumer expectations, not only in Europe but also throughout the world.

Formulating a natural cosmetic product is not that simple, for various reasons:

• The naturality of the cosmetic ingredients is not always clearly indicated, and the calculation methods used vary from one supplier to another (ISO 16128, COSMOS…)
• The formula stability is an essential point to check before launching a new product
• The formula must be perfectly tolerated by all skin types
• Textures must be always more innovative to attract consumers’ attention
• Sensoriality is a key factor that drives purchase intention

Formulating a natural cosmetic product therefore takes longer, whereas development times decrease year after year.

This technology leads to the creation of 100% natural origin emulsifiers and texture ingredients which bring moisturizing benefits due to the vegetable waxes and true sensory identities.

It maximizes the advantages of vegetable waxes while overcoming their disadvantages:

For over 30 years, Gattefossé has developed a strong expertise in the transformation and functionalization of natural waxes according to the rules of green chemistry. This environment-friendly chemistry enables the creation of new texture ingredients with particularly interesting properties. Gattefossé holds a number of patents on this technology, the most recent of which describe the reaction of solid and liquid waxes in presence of vegetable polyglycerol¹. The subject of several scientific papers, communications and recognized as an innovation in textures, this chemistry has been used to create a wide range of texture ingredients.

Natural waxes contain fatty acids, fatty alcohols and esters with reactive groups. Adding polyglycerol enables the creation of new sensorial esters though a succession of transesterifications.

Let's take an example with polyglycerol-3, jojoba wax, and a solid wax:

1) Transesterification between polyglycerol-3 and ester of solid wax:

2) Transesterification between polyglycerol-3 monoester and jojoba wax ester:

3) Transesterification between fatty alcohol of solid wax and polyglycerol-3 diester:

4) Transesterification between polyglycerol-3 monoester and fatty alcohol of jojoba wax:

These transesterifications create new jojoba esters that combine the rigidity of the saturated carbon chain with the flexibility of the unsaturated one.

These mixed esters show intermediate physico-chemical properties between solid and liquid waxes.

Transforming the waxes improves their behavior and functionality. These new properties include a better solubilization in the lipid phase, amphiphilic behavior, good moisturizing properties and enhanced sensory attributes.

The reactions described above create a homogeneous soft wax butter. It has the ability to absorb up to 4 times its weight in water and is central to the moisturizing properties of the ingredients created with this technology.

By varying the types of waxes used, Gattefossé has developed a wide range of emulsifiers and texturizing ingredients with very distinct functional and sensory properties.