All publications
Biomimetic hydrogels restore fibrolast quiescence and enhance the predictive value of in vitro models
55th annual ESDR meeting - Sep 2026
Skin is a soft tissue (with stiffness in the kPa range, depending on its physiological state). Biomechanical properties of the skin, which are determined by tissue stiffness, strongly regulate dermal fibroblast phenotype & function. Conventional plastic culture dishes are up to one million times stiffer than skin and therefore represent an irrelevant substrate for skin cells. Biomimetic hydrogels matching the stiffness of skin tissue are emerging as a promising strategy to enhance the physiological relevance of in vitro skin models.
Investigation of the Influencing Factors and Formation Mechanism of the Soaping Effect in Natural Source Cosmetics
J. Cosmet. Sci., 77.4, 250–269 - Jul 2026
Based on the previously established and standardized method for evaluating the soaping effect, this study systematically examined the mechanisms underlying this phenomenon, including the influence of the composition of naturally sourced cosmetic products.
Lipid mediator class-switching defects in aging skin disrupt pro-resolving pathways and compromise dermal homeostasis
42nd Annual Congress of Dermatological Research (CARD) - Toulouse, France - Jun 2026
Lipid mediators play pivotal roles in regulating skin inflammation and maintaining homeostasis, yet agedependent alterations in these bioactive networks remain poorly characterized. To address this issue, we performed a comprehensive metabololipidomicanalysis combining area-under-the-curve quantification and principal component analysis to profile 24 lipid mediators in young (22.7 ± 5.2 years) versus aged (66.7 ± 7.3 years) human skin explants following PMA-induced inflammatory stress.
Preparation and characterization of liquid crystal emulsions based on a wax ester emulsifier
Oct 2024
Liquid crystals have fascinated the cosmetic world for many decades because of the interest in terms of biomimetism, moisturization/barrier function, active controlled release, and stability they bring to emulsions. In the past, the creation of such structures was possible with the use of PEG emulsifiers, whereas it’s now possible to create them using natural origin materials. In this study the effects of manufacturing process and formulation composition on the formation of liquid crystals with a wax ester emulsifier will be presented.
Construction of spheroids from melanocytes of different ethnic origins: screening model and variation
53rd Annual ESDR Meeting (4-7 September 2024, Lisbon, Portugal) - Sep 2024
Melanogenesis is a complex porcess, ans its in vitro modeling remains a challenge to develop relevant test suitable for rapid preclinical evaluation of the efficacy of lightening products to modulate human skin pigmentation.
Melanocytes are known to lose their ability to synthesize melanin in monolayer culture, even though the melanin content correlates with the ethnic background of the donors. Tissue engineering is an alternative to 2D culture because the cell behaviors in 3D microenvironment are closer to skin physiology.
We therefore compared the efficacy of 3 assays as high-throughput in vitro systems for skin-lightening drug screening: (i) Monolayer 2D culture of proliferative melanocytes, (ii) Microtissue 3D spheroid of non-proliferative melanocytes, (iii) Epidermal tissue 3D model containing functional melanocytes.
Elastogenic potential and antisagging properties of a novel Murraya koenigii extract
Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology - 2023
The newly discovered extract of Murraya koenigii leafy stems represents an innovative antiaging ingredient suited for elasticity-boosting and antisagging claims.
A multiparametric, stepwise in vitro approach to identify anti-dark circle and anti-puffiness ingredients
IFSCC Congress - 2022
A unique plant extract with promising anti-puffiness and anti-dark circle potential has been identified using the stepwise selection model.
Advanced translational cosmetics: using the world’s first non-invasive bioimpedance 3D bioprinted skin chips to link cosmetics lab testing to humans
IFSCC Congress - 2022
This model enables advanced translational lab-to-donor data to help bring sophisticated cosmetics ingredients to market faster, safely and more affordably.
A NaDES extract of Rose ‘Jardin de Granville®’ displays pro-resolving and epidermal strengthening properties
IFSCC Congress - 2022
The fructose/propanediol/water (NaDES FPW113) extract of “Jardin de Granville” Rose flowers has demonstrated great potential in vitro and ex vivo to support epidermal homeostasis and counteract the inflammaging process.