In a few words

This minimalist formula is the one used for substantiation tests of Emulium® Dermolea MB.
With its fluid texture, this daily skincare product is quickly absorbed and leaves a light moisturizing film that provides long-lasting comfort to the skin - characteristic of the sensory signature of Emulium® Dermolea MB. Clinically tested for 28 days on different skin types (phototypes I to VI), this formula with 4% Emulium® Dermolea MB has an immediate and long-lasting moisturizing effect (up to 8 hours), as well as a long-term soothing effect. Fragrance-free, this minimalist formula reinforces the skin barrier function and offers optimal tolerance for sensitive skin.
Adapted to all types of climate, its sensoriality is identical in tropical and temperate environments.

Key points

  • Facial care
  • Moisturizing
  • Light feel

Upon application

Formula

PhaseNameINCISupplier%
A1DEMINERALIZED WATERWATER-70,89
AVICEL® PC 591MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, CELLULOSE GUMDUPONT1,50
A2GLYCERINGLYCERIN-5,00
SATIAXANE™ VPC 911XANTHAN GUMCARGILL0,20
BEMULIUM® DERMOLEA MBPOLYGLYCERYL-6 DISTEARATE, CANDELILLA/JOJOBA/RICE BRAN
POLYGLYCERYL-3 ESTERS
GATTEFOSSE4,00
CETYL ALCOHOLCETYL ALCOHOL-1,50
MOD MBOCTYLDODECYL MYRISTATEGATTEFOSSE8,00
CETIOL® OEDICAPRYLYL ETHERBASF3,00
LABRAFAC™ CC MBCAPRYLIC/CAPRIC TRIGLYCERIDEGATTEFOSSE5,00
PRESERVATIVEPRESERVATIVE-0,80
CCITRIC ACID (10% SOL.)WATER, CITRIC ACID-0,11
    100,00

Operating instruction

  • Heat water at 70°C and disperse Avicel® PC 591 under mixing. Homogenize for 10 minutes under high speed.
  • Premix xanthan gum and glycerin, add it to A1, and maintain mixing for 10 minutes.
  • Heat B up to 70°C and stir until complete solubilization.
  • Under high shear, add B (70°C) to A (70°C), and homogenize for 10 minutes.
  • Cool under mixing up to 35°C, then add C and stir for 5 minutes.
  • Complete cooling to 25°C under mixing

Specifications

  • Aspect:
    White glossy emulsion
  • pH: 5.8 ± 0.3
  • Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle A, speed 5):
    approx. 28000 ± 3000 mPa.s after 24h
  • Natural origin >99% (ISO 16128)

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Emulium® Dermolea MB, Gattefossé’s new plant-based O/W emulsifier, will officially launch at in-cosmetics global 2023 in Barcelona.

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