The next step towards photoprotection
Ever conscious of the harsh factors impacting their skin, consumers show a real affinity toward health-centric skincare products. The dermo-cosmetics segment or “Derma” brands are seeing a spike in popularity, aligned with the search for a preventive approach to beauty.
Solastemis™ is the latest active ingredient developed by Gattefossé, designed as an answer to concerns about skin health. Following in-depth research on the effects of UVA on the skin (read the article “Pathway to photoaging: The skin and the Sun”), it has been specifically highlighted for its ability to protect epidermal stem cells from UVA-induced DNA damage. It has a great potential to preserve the regeneration capacity of the epidermis and support long-lasting skin health and beauty.
A broad range of efficacies
Solastemis™ acts at the heart of the epidermis mechanics to protect epidermal cells from the undesired consequences of UVA radiation. Several in vitro models have been combined to evaluate the ability of Solastemis™ to protect the stemness of epidermal keratinocytes exposed to UVA radiation. We have shown that Solastemis™ can act at several stages of the DNA damage process. At an early stage, it reduces by 30% the level of reactive oxygen species (ROS) inside cells, which are the first consequence of UVA radiation.
Solastesmis™ also prevents the formation of DNA lesions: it reduces the number of different types of DNA lesions following UVA exposure and also boosts the enzymatic repair activities of such lesions (up to 2.3x).
As a consequence, keratinocytes stem cells are protected from harsh UVA impacts and display an improved clonogenic potential, meaning self-renewal potential. This guarantee the maintenance of the epidermal homeostasis and health over the long term.
Beyond the epidermis, we also looked at the ability of Solastemis™ to protect the extra-cellular matrix against the deleterious effects of UVA exposure. It was discovered that the elastic fibers and collagen network, as well as elastin and collagen I production, were preserved from UV-induced degradation.
Clinical data vs. placebo
A double-blind clinical trial (active versus placebo) has been performed on a panel of 33 Caucasian women (aged 48.5 y.o. on average). The objective of the study was to assess the efficacy of a formula containing 2% Solastemis™ on the face of women with photo-exposed skin. A set of methodologies (including instrumental methods) was used to assess its capacity of reducing symptoms associated with sun exposure and photoaging.
Results showed a clear anti-wrinkle effect, statistically significant vs. placebo (-12.5% area and length of wrinkles, -12.2% volume, based on image analysis on 3D acquisitions). Different analyses of the skin color reveal an improvement in the skin luminosity (+29%) and homogeneity (+27%), visible after only 1 month. These results are associated with a reduction of the biological age of the volunteers by 3.6 years on average (according to the Diagnoskin® method which establishes a correlation between the microrelief of the skin and its physiological age).
A fruit sustainably sourced on Reunion Island
Solastemis™ features a truly natural composition. Active molecules are extracted from Sechium edule, a fruit cultivated and manually harvested in the majestic cirque of Salazie, on La Reunion Island. Long-lasting relationships with local producers and harvesters guarantee Gattefossé with perfect traceability and quality, from field to factory. The Sechium edule used for Solastemis™ grows on a family farm dedicated to market gardening. According to jointly established specifications, Gattefossé only uses the fruits discarded from the market sales, following zero-waste principles.
Right after harvest, the fresh fruits are transformed directly on-site, sliced, and then dehydrated in a dedicated dryer. Gattefossé has been committed to the technical evolution of the producer’s facilities with the financing of a mechanical slicer and a dryer, in order to facilitate post-harvesting operations. As part of its CSR program, Gattefossé is also committed to the financial stability of this supply chain: a supply agreement has been set up to ensure regular income to the producer.
The extraction through NaDES technology (Natural Deep Eutectic Solvents) and a tailor-made manufacturing process (minimal number of processing steps and a limited duration for each of them) make it possible to obtain an eco-designed ingredient (99.85% natural origin content – ISO 16128) associated with biological high performance.
The science behind Solastemis™ is explained by our R&D expert: