Cosmic Chromorphing Shadow

2865-7.05

In a few words

Magic inside! This eyeshadow glides easily on eyelids and transforms itself from a pearly white to a cosmic grey. With only one product, a smoky eye can be created with differents shades.

Thanks to its substantiated emulsifier, Emulium® Dolcea MB, this formula is super stable, and moisturizes the skin.

Lipocire™ A SG adds a melting sensation upon application and increases creaminess.

Key points

  • Transforming
  • Magic effect
  • White to cosmic grey
  • baume

Upon application

Formule

Phase​

Name​

INCI​

Supplier​

%​

A DEMINERALIZED WATER WATER _ 54.15
AVICEL® PC 591 MICROCRYSTALLINE CELLULOSE, CELLULOSE GUM DUPONT 0.60
A2 SATIAXANE™ VPC 911 XANTHAN GUM CARGILL 0.25
PROPANEDIOL PROPANEDIOL _ 3.00
VANATURAL® BENTONITE R.T. VANDERBILT 1.00
B EMULIUM® DOLCEA MB CETEARYL ALCOHOL, GLYCERYL STEARATE, JOJOBA ESTERS, HELIANTHUS
ANNUUS (SUNFLOWER) SEED WAX, SODIUM STEAROYL GLUTAMATE, WATER,
POLYGLYCERIN-3
GATTEFOSSE 4.50
LIPOCIRE™ A SG C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES GATTEFOSSE 4.50
CETYL ALCOHOL CETYL ALCOHOL _ 1.50
CETIOL® C5 COCO-CAPRYLATE BASF 10.00
PRESERVATIVE PRESERVATIVE _ 1.00
C COVAPEARL® SATIN 931 TITANIUM DIOXIDE, MICA SENSIENT 5.00
SYNCRYSTAL® SPARKLING SILVER SYNTHETIC FLUORPHLOGOPITE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE ECKART 2.00
XIRONA® NORDIC SUNSET SILICA, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE MERCK 5.00
MIRAGE® HOLO MAGIC CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, TIN OXIDE, IRON OXIDES,
SILICA
ECKART 4.00
REFLECKS™ MUTLIDIMENSION CHANGING CHERRY CALCIUM SODIUM BOROSILICATE, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, SILICA SENSIENT 2.00
D BIOGENIC™ MAGICOLOR 140B ECO IRON OXIDES, TITANIUM DIOXIDE, MICA, ZEIN BIOGENIC INC. 3.00
 

100.00​

Operating instruction

  • Heat phase B at 75-80°C. Check that all ingredients are melted (could present some turbidity due to Emulium® Dolcea MB) and maintain at 75°C.
  • Heat water of phase A1 at 75°C, add Avicel® PC 591 and disperse under high shear with rotor stator for 10 minutes. Check homogeneity.
  • Add premix A2 into A1 and disperse under high shear with rotor stator for 15 minutes. Check homogeneity.
  • Proceed with the emulsion of phase B into phase A at 75°C under medium shear, and then increase to high shear (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes.
  • Cool down under moderate shear and below 40°C add phase C. Mix under moderate shear for 10-15 minutes (do not use rotor stator, only mixing tools).
  • Below 30°C add phase D under very slow mixing until it is homogeneous. Do not use rotor stator: the beads of incapsulated pigments are very fragile, it requires slow mixing.
  • Finish to cool down until reaching 25°C. Check the pH and adjust if necessary.

Specifications

  • Aspect: Silver cream
  • pH: 7.4 ± 0.3
  • Natural origin > 90% (ISO 16128)
  • Viscosity Brookfield RV (spindle C, speed 5):
    approx. 52000 mPa.s at t0
    approx. 125000 mPa.s after 24h
    Viscosity is stabilized after 24h

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