Ulti-matte concealer ⋅ Gattefossé

In a few words

Say bye-bye to dark circles with this high coverage concealer! The texture doesn't move throughout the day thanks to its matte finish. This formula has been developed in 3 shades, from a very light to a very dark shade, so you can create a full range of colors without any trouble thanks to Emulium® Illustro pigment affinity. The yellow/warm undertones inside ensures perfect coverage of “purple” dark circles (based on colorimetry rules).

Key points

High coverage
Ultra matte
No setting powder needed

Upon application

Formula

Medium shade:

Phase	Name	INCI	Supplier	%
A	EMULIUM® ILLUSTRO	POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERIN-6	Gattefossé	3.50
	LEXFEEL™ N5 MB	DIHEPTYL SUCCINATE, CAPRYLOYL GLYCERIN/SEBACIC ACID COPOLYMER	Inolex	7.00
	LIPOCIRE™ A SG	C10-18 TRIGLYCERIDES	Gattefossé	2.00
	PRESERVATIVE	PRESERVATIVE	_	1.00
B	BENTONE GEL NGD V	NEOPENTYL GLYCOL DIHEPTANOATE, DISTEARDIMONIUM HECTORITE, PROPYLENE CARBONATE	Elementis	5.00
B	AEROSIL 200	SILICA	Evonik	1.00
C	UNIPURE WHITE LC 981 HLC	TITANIUM DIOXIDE, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN	Sensient	21.21
	UNIPURE YELLOW LC 182 HLC	IRON OXIDES, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN	Sensient	3.00
	UNIPURE RED LC 381 HLC	IRON OXIDES, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN	Sensient	0.67
	UNIPURE BLACK LC 989 HLC	IRON OXIDES, HYDROGENATED LECITHIN	Sensient	0.12
	CETIOL® CC	DICAPRYLYL CARBONATE	BASF	14.00
	EMULIUM® ILLUSTRO	POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYHYDROXYSTEARATE, POLYGLYCERYL-6 POLYRICINOLEATE, POLYGLYCERIN-6	Gattefossé	0.50
D	DEMINERALIZED WATER	WATER	_	32.00
	MAGNESIUM SULFATE (99%)	MAGNESIUM SULFATE	_	2.00
	SODIUM CHLORIDE, CODEX	SODIUM CHLORIDE	_	1.00
	GLYCERIN	GLYCERIN	_	2.00
E	SERICA 5	MICA	Sensient	1.00
E	AMIHOPE® LL	LAUROYL LYSINE	Ajinomoto	1.00
F	GATULINE® LINK'N'LIFT	FRUCTOSE, GLYCERIN, WATER, AESCULUS HIPPOCASTANUM (HORSE CHESTNUT) EXTRACT	Gattefossé	2.00
				100.00

Operating instruction

In the main vessel, heat phase A at around 45°C to melt Lipocire™ A SG.
Add ingredients of phase B one by one and disperse with Ultra Turrax for 5 minutes. Check that everything is dispersed homogeneously.
Prepare the pigment phase C: wet pigments with Cetiol® CC and Emulium® Illustro and use a three roll mill to get a homogeneous paste. Add then to phase A+B and disperse the pigment paste with high shear or Ultra Turrax.
Prepare water phase D and solubilize the electrolytes. Heat at 45°C.
Proceed with the emulsion of phase D into phase A+B+C at 45°C under medium shear, and then increase to high shear (3000 rpm) for 10 minutes.
Cool down under moderate shear and below 35°C add the powders of phase E. Mix under moderate shear for 5-10 minutes.
Add then phase F.