As consumer interest in natural cosmetics continues to grow, the importance of natural actives as a key part of cosmetic formulations increases as well.  Today’s consumer expects powerful efficacy from natural products.  The challenge therefore becomes to find extraction methods that are both natural and effective in extracting the key active molecules from plants.  NaDES is a new solution, adopted by Gattefossé, to create new, natural, and highly functional active ingredients.

When extracting active metabolites from plants, some molecules are more challenging than others.  Despite perfect solubility in plant tissues, many of these molecules are poorly soluble in water, lipids, and even the most efficient known solvents.  Additionally, traditional solvents such as butylene glycol are no longer acceptable to many consumers.

Today, there is an important need for green and bio-based solvents that improve sustainability and reduce the impact on the environment.

 

NaDES, the “natural” solution

 

Recently, a new category of solvents has been discovered that is directly inspired by the way in which metabolites are solubilized inside the plant – through eutectic combinations of simple chemicals such as sugars, nitrogen compounds, and organic acids.

Working with researchers from Leiden University, Gattefossé has developed and patented several natural eutectic solvents suitable for use in cosmetics, using all-natural components such as fructose, glycerin, and water. This exciting new class of solvents is natural, safe, and allows us to extract exciting new activity from plants.

 

But what does NaDES mean?

 

“A eutectic mixture is defined as a mixture of two or more components which usually do not interact to form a new chemical compound but which, at certain ratios, inhibit the crystallization process of one another resulting in a system having a lower melting point than either of the components.”1

A NaDES can be defined as a eutectic mixture formed by a combination of natural molecules with specific molar ratio.  At the eutectic ratio, the mixture is a homogenous liquid characterized by a supramolecular structure.

 

Let’s see some results!

 

Our newest active, Gatuline® Link n Lift  takes advantage of NaDES technology to bring improvement to the eye contour – visibly reducing difficult to erase under-eye and tear-trough wrinkles.

As an example, the chart below shows the efficacy results of both traditional and NaDES solvents on Type IV collagen.  You can clearly see that, in this case, combining a NaDES solvent with white chestnut flowers yielded the best results.

 

NaDES technology and Gattefossé

 

Gattefossé has obtained rights to develop and commercialize cosmetic active ingredients obtained using the highly innovative NaDES technology.

Natural, non-toxic and efficient at low temperatures, the NaDES technology is perfectly aligned with the Gattefossé strategy to provide high-performance sustainable ingredients with positive environmental impact.