Let your hair down!

Despite the health crisis that has shaken the world for over a year, the haircare market continues to grow at an estimated CAGR of 3.35% between 2021 and 2026, according to a Mordor Intelligence report.

However, this crisis has changed the haircare habits of consumers and accelerated some trends such as inclusivity, naturality and scalp care. Consumers are no longer trying to hide their true hair nature, but want to assume it naturally, while enhancing it. It is therefore important to understand this evolving market to offer products that will meet the new consumer’s expectations.

 

Personalization and inclusivity

 

Each consumer is unique, his or her hair and scalp therefore need targeted care adapted to their nature to express all their beauty and vitality.

Consumer demands vary widely around the world. According to Mintel, naturality is a very strong trend in Europe (even if it tends to spread to all continents), inclusivity is especially sought after in America, whereas consumers in Asia are more in search of hybrid hair formulations and scalp products.

Globally, consumers are looking for products that will target their needs in a very specific way. For example, 46%* of Chinese are interested in personalized hair products that target their hair type and needs, and 44%* of French are interested in personalized products adapted to their hair texture.

Moreover, much like in skincare and makeup, it is time to bring inclusivity in haircare. Aging is now celebrated through the menopause beauty movement, and age-related hair concern are targeted by some brands: greying, thinning, dryness or hair quality. Finally, more and more brands are now on a mission to change the discourse on ethnic hair. Forget the idea that textured hair is difficult to manage and should be controlled, and let it show its true beauty!

 

Focus on textured hair

 

Textured hair is represented by wavy, curly and coily hair according to the Andre Walker hair type classification.

 

 

It is a very present concern in the US, where 56%* of consumers have textured hair. This is precisely the case for black people who have mostly curly to coily hair. Until now, black people with textured hair were very little represented in the media or in the beauty shelves. But more and more brands have realized that this hair type deserves as much care (if not more!) as other hair types, and they now offer complete ranges dedicated to it. And consumers are in demand since according to Mintel, US Black consumers spent around $1.71 billion on hair products in 2020, a figure set to reach $1.9 billion by 2025.

 

Sustainable haircare

 

Haircare products with natural and ethical claims continue to rise around the world, especially in Europe and the US, fuelled by consumer interest in products that are perceived as healthier and safer for the planet, humans and animals, and by ongoing global warming concerns. Asian consumers, until now not very interested in this trend, are starting to demand more natural products: 46%* of Chinese consumers who have colored or styled their hair prefer natural botanical formulas.

Among these claims, “free from” claims are still reassuring, and some cosmetic ingredients such as silicones or sulfates are unwelcome in haircare products. Since 2016, the vegan claim has invaded haircare package labelling with an increase of 369%*! Biodegradability has also taken an impressive jump in haircare products with a 242%* increase in the number of launches since 2016. It is especially true for rinse-off formulas, as they go through our shower drains into the environment.

Finally, when it comes to haircare and the possible sustainable solutions associated, it is nearly impossible not to talk about the solid format as the number of haircare launches in bar form has literally exploded since 2018, mainly for shampoos and conditioners. But aside from bars, solid cosmetics can also come as powders, sticks, balms, tabs or pastes.

 

Hair fragility and scalp

 

Hair is a fragile structure that is subject to life hazards. For example, heredity, stress, hormones, nutritional deficiencies, or certain diseases can strongly weaken the hair fiber and lead to hair loss or breakage. The health crisis has amplified these problematics. For 85% of people, Covid-19 made life more stressful according to the Office for National Statistics published in August 2020.

It is possible to use haircare products that help prevent and reduce hair loss and breakage, but one of the most effective ways is to work on the scalp. The scalp has been in the spotlight for a few years as it is now defined as the extension of facial skin that is key to have beautiful hair. Consumers have realized that it is important to take care of this area since more than 90%* of Chinese consumers agree that scalp care can improve their hair health and 78% of Italian consumers have used or are interested in using haircare products that protect the scalp microbiome.

The scalp care is also an opportunity to talk about dandruff, hair loss, lack of volume or hair thinning, concerns that are encountered by many consumers. For example, 22%* of female UK consumers are concerned about hair loss and 56%* of Chinese consumers are worried about dandruff.

 

A natural texturizing agent designed for haircare

 

Definicire® is a natural texturizing agent based on the patented Gattefossé wax butter technology. It is PEG-free, silicone-free, and it was especially designed for haircare. The raw materials were carefully selected to obtain a biomimetic composition that would recreate the hair’s protective lipid layer. It was even confirmed through substantiation tests that Definicire® could rival the performance of quaternary compounds and silicones. Suitable for all hair types, it increases hair hydrophobicity, ensures hair discipline, enhances hair smoothness and has anti-pollution properties.

Finally, it is COSMOS approved and readily biodegradable: 95% of the ingredient was biodegraded after 28 days, according to OECD 301F method.

Definicire® has been integrated into a range of 5 formulations especially created for hair and scalp care.

 

5 formulations that meet new consumer requirements

 

Three leave-on haircare products have been formulated to satisfy all hair types according to Andre Walker classification. In order to make the most of their effect, it is preferable to use them on damp hair (after a shower or using a water spray) and to let hair dry in the open air or with a hair dryer.

 

 

Revitalizing Hair Lotion (2433-1.02) is a 98% natural origin light lotion for fine and straight hair (type 1a, 1b and 1c of Andre Walker classification), that smoothes and disciplines hair without weighing it down thanks to Definicire®. Formulated with Emulium® Mellifera MB, this fluid emulsion penetrates quickly into the hair fiber without leaving a perceptible film and weighing down the hair.

 

 

 

Smoothing & Protective Hair Cream (2493-1.08) is a 99% natural origin softening cream for thick, wavy and curly hair (type 2a, 2b, 2c, 3a and 3b of Andre Walker classification), redefines waves and curls thanks to Definicire®. Formulated with Emulium® Dolcea MB, this unctuous cream leaves a very soft protective film without greasing the hair.

 

 

 

Intense Nutrition Hair Balm (2435-1.02) is a 97% natural origin nutritive balm for curly, frizzy and coily hair (type 3a, 3b, 4a and 4b of Andre Walker classification) that leaves a soft protective film and redefines hairstyle thanks to Definicire®. Formulated with Emulium® Mellifera MB, this thick oily balm intensely nourishes the hair without any greasy afterfeel.

 

 

 

Moreover, two formulations have been created especially for the scalp.

 

Nutritive Scalp Lotion (2436-1.02) is a 98% natural origin light care that nourishes dry and irritated scalp. Formulated with Emulium® Kappa MB, it penetrates quickly and nourishes the scalp without weighing down the hair. Thanks to Gatuline® Renew, Gatuline® Skin-Repair AF and Original Extract™ Lemon Bio, the scalp is protected, moisturized, and repaired.

 

 

 

Hair & Scalp Mud Mask (2441-1.03) is a 98% natural origin mask that purifies and detoxifies the hair and the scalp thanks to the green clay, while remaining comfortable thanks to its emulsified texture obtained with Emulium® Dolcea MB which rinses easily. Moreover, this rinse-off formula is readily biodegradable since 88% of the product has been biodegraded after only 28 days, according to OECD 301F method.

 

 

 

* Mintel data