Emulium® Illustro is a water-in-oil emulsifier that is highly compatible with pigments and UV filters, but also with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients. PEG-free and COSMOS approved, this new ingredient perfectly meets consumer requirements in terms of naturality and formulator expectations in performance and flexibility.
Today, there is growing consumer interest for silicone-free, natural color cosmetics and sunscreens.
Gattefossé has applied its strong knowledge in lipid chemistry to the development of Emulium® Illustro. Six years of research and development have been necessary to create this performant and flexible emulsifier, that can replace water-in-silicone textures.
Clinical evaluation of skin quality:
Smooth aspect of the skin: +16%
Healthy glow: +26%
Moisturized appareance of the skin: +26%
Overall quality: +19%
Thanks to Emulium® Illustro, emulsification is easy, fast and can be cold-processable without any co-emulsifier.
When formulating with Emulium® Illustro, choosing the right emollients is essential to prevent stability issues. Discover how to select them in this video!
Designed principally for pigmented formulations, Emulium® Illustro helps to disperse pigments and UV filters and obtain homogeneous and stable formulas.
Discover how to formulate a natural, sensorial and efficient foundation with our W/O emulsifier Emulium® Illustro!
Sensoriality:
Unique sensory imprint
Light and soft afterfeel
“skincare” touch
Glowy finish and moisturized feeling on the skin
Clinical evaluation of foundation performance:
Complexion uniformity: +47%
Imperfections visibility: -23%
Healthy glow: +33%
Skin fineness: +27%
Clinical evaluation of skin quality:
Smooth aspect of the skin: +16%
Healthy glow: +26%
Moisturized appareance of the skin: +26%
Overall quality: +19%
Thanks to Emulium® Illustro, emulsification is easy, fast and can be cold-processable without any co-emulsifier.
Claims
Designed principally for pigmented formulations
100% natural origin
Does not require a co-emulsifier
Cold-processable
Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients
Applications
From ultra fluid to thick textures
Color cosmetics: foundations, concealers, BB and CC creams, highlighters, eye and lip products
Sun care: organic and inorganic sunscreens
Skin care
Natural, organic and vegan formulations
FORMULATIONS
Direct access to technical information and documents
Let’s now discover the Glittering Gummies (2745-3.04), a surprising travel-friendly format for a highlighter, made possible by Emulium® Kappa MB! Compact and easy to carry, this solid O/W emulsion is perfect for touch-ups on the go.
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It offers an ultra-bouncy effect and melting sensation thanks to Lipocire® A SG and creates a fresh and watery effect upon application. \n (97.4% natural origin)
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Craving uniqueness? The Holo Eye Liner (2758-1.11) has been designed to reveal the eccentricity living in you while reamining smudge-free and waterproof. Creamy and quick-drying, it melts seamlessly thanks to Lipocire® A SG to leave an intense purple, holographic line with long-wear properties! Emulium® Dolcea MB shows unfailing efficiency and robustness with this formula rich in pigments. \n (92% natural origin)
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Playground
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What if everyday life became a playground (again)? Gattefossé encourages more playful cosmetic application with our Cottage Cheese cream (2748-1.11) and its Squid Ink Topping (2748-2.04)! With Emulium® Dolcea MB, Acticire® MB, and EnergiNius® this creamy, yogurt-like texture delivers moisturizing and energizing benefits, perfect for daily application. Recommended once a week or once a month, mix it with 2 drops of the Squid Ink Topping, enriched with Original Extract® Ginger, to create your own detox mask! \n (99.5% natural origin)
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Experience the unexpected
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It’s time to discover new territories! Between the real and imaginary, appearances can be misleading… \n Like the Chayote-Kiwi Sorbet (2694-3.03), is it a beauty sorbet or a granita? With its light green color, you first see a food-like texture that you would love to eat. Upon initial application, you’ll feel a fresh, creamy yet powdery sensation, that leaves a dry, soft, non-tacky after-feel due to Emulium® Mellifera MB. This cushion cream brings a refreshing and intense moisturization, acts as a blur, and protects the skin from photoaging with Solastemis™. The skin appears radiant, even, and healthy. \n (99.4% natural origin)
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Alien Slime (2614-3.01) is another optical illusion! is it slime, or is it a cosmetic? Try it and you’ll be surprised by its comfortable, stringy, but non-sticky after-feel thanks to Emulium® Dolcea MB & Acticire® MB.
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Adapted for sensitive skin, it has a long playtime which is perfect for a soothing massage! It can also be used as a leave-on so that you can appreciate its nourishing properties. \n (98.2% natural origin)
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A nonionic water-dispersible surfactant for lipid-based formulations to solubilize and increase oral bioavailability of poorly water-soluble APIs. Self-emulsifies in aqueous media forming a fine dispersion, i.e., microemulsion (SMEDDS).
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Lauroyl Polyoxyl-32 glycerides
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Lauroyl Macrogol-32 glycerides
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H5ZC52369M
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LAUROYL PEG-32 GLYCERIDES
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Polyoxylglycerides
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Consists of a small fraction of mono, di- and triglycerides and mainly PEG-32 (MW 1500) mono- and diesters of lauric acid (C12)
Solubilizer for poorly-soluble APIs and bioavailability enhancer. Single excipient formulation system: self-emulsifies in aqueous fluid into microemulsion—LFCS Type III (SMEDDS). Wetting agent. Lipid binder in melt processes. Safety of use is inferred by extensive toxicological evaluations and precedence of use in approved pharmaceutical products.
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Oxidative Stability in Lipid Formulations: a Review of the Mechanisms, Drivers, and Inhibitors of Oxidation
\n
Jasmine Musakhanian, Jean-David Rodier and Masumi Dave
\n
AAPS PharmSciTech – Vol. 23 – May 2022, Article number 151
Successful oral delivery of poorly water-soluble drugs both depends on the intraluminal behavior of drugs and of appropriate advanced drug delivery systems
\n
Ben J. Boyd, Christel A.S. Bergström, Zahari Vinarov, Martin Kuentz, Joachim Brouwers, Patrick Augustijns, Martin Brandl, Andreas Bernkop-Schnürch, Neha Shrestha, Véronique Préat, Anette Müllertz, Annette Bauer-Brandl, Vincent Jannin
\n
European Journal of Pharmaceutical Sciences, Volume 137, 2019, 104967, \n ISSN 0928-0987, https://doi.org/10.1016/j.ejps.2019.104967.
\n
In this excellent review article issued from the UNGAP program (European Network on Understanding Gastro-intestinal Absorption-related Process) you will find relevant and up-to-date information on:
\n
\n
Poorly water soluble drugs and the link between physico-chemical properties and solubility, lipophilicity and permeability
\n
Technologies to increase solubility and dissolution rate: salt formation, amorphous solid dispersions, lipid-based formulations
\n
How to avoid precipitation and create a concentration gradient to improve absorption
\n
Methods for modelling the performance such as Molecular Dynamics Simulations
\n
In vitro methods for solubility and dissolution assessments
\n
Methods to explore the absorption in the GI tract: GI concentration-time profile, in vitro digestion, in vitro models coupling dissolution and permeation, mucus diffusion
\n
Impact of molecularly dissolved drug versus apparently dissolved drug (ie in colloidal structure)
1 Initial identification and characterization of the active ingredient \n 1.1 Physico-chemical characteristics \n 1.2 Impact of physicochemical characteristics on absorption \n 1.3 Passive diffusion prediction tools \n 1.4 In silico prediction \n 2 Biopharmaceutical classifications
\n
III Formulation strategies
\n
1 prerequisites \n 2 techniques for increasing the dissolution rate \n 3 Solubility enhancement technologies \n 4 Improving the permeability, oral route
\n
IV Control, assessment, prediction of the bioavailability
\n
1 Physicochemical control methods for the manufacturing intermediates and finished products \n 2 Assessing an dpredicting the bioavailability of the formulations
\n
V Alternative strategy: changing the route of administration
Colloidal aspects of dispersion and digestion of self-dispersing lipid-based formulations for poorly water-soluble drugs
\n
Kapilkumar Vithani, Vincent Jannin, Colin W. Pouton, Ben J. Boyd
\n
In this review article, the authors explain the importance of the colloidal structures formed during dispersion and digestion of self emulsifying lipid-based formulations on drug solubilization and absorption.
\n
A review of the techniques used to characterize the colloidal structures is also carried out.
LIPID-BASED DELIVERY – Are Lipid-Based Drug Delivery Systems in Your Formulation Toolbox?
\n
Dr. Jason LePree Drug Development & Delivery, Issue: October 2017, Posted Date: 9/29/2017 This article reviews the causes of poor bioavailability for drugs. It provides an introduction to lipid-based drug delivery systems, and how the formulation approach can be used to overcome impediments to good bioavailability of therapeutic actives, including poor water solubility, low permeability, and degradation by stomach acid or enzymes in vivo.
Reaching milestones in lipid-based formulations: from effective prediction to successful development
\n
September 2015 This white paper describes the important milestones achieved in lipid based formulation (LBF) development for oral drug delivery. Collaborative research between academic and industrial partners has increased understanding of the functional properties of lipid excipients and the role they play in solubilizing poorly water soluble compounds. It has also led to the development of in vitro – in vivo predictive analytical tools. The key scientific articles describing these milestones are collected in this one White Paper, providing a single source of practical information for those interested in lipid formulation development.
This acticle describes the work undertaken in Gattefossé R&D labs (St Priest) to develop lipid formulations for low to medium lipophilicity API: piroxicam, nifedipine and curcurmin and evaluate the effect of in-vitro digestion on the solubilizing capacity of the formulations.
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We are experts in two complementary fields: lipid chemistry and plant extraction. This know-how enables us to meet the latest market trends in both natural performing actives and functional excipients, recognized for their sensorial benefits.
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Skin for All","description":"Anti-acne solutions","content":"
\n We have been facing some trying times these past few years – a global pandemic, war, political divide, and climate change. It is no wonder many of us feel so stressed out, on top of our daily worries around work, school, or personal relationships. We know stress isn’t healthy for the mind, body, and soul. But, it is particularly damaging to the skin because “in times of stress, your stress hormones rise and trigger your oil glands to produce more oil, which then triggers acne flares.”*
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\n According to SPATE, the acne condition ranks #2 within the face concerns category of skincare, with the top subcategory of stress acne showing the highest year-over-year growth. We may not be able to resolve such global issues at Gattefossé, but we can surely provide you with self-care rituals to help you keep calm and Gatt’ your clear skin on!
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FIGHT ACNE WITH GATTEFOSSÉ\n
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In overwhelming times, there truly is a need for cocooning and rejuvenating moments, which is why Gattefossé has developed a beauty routine comprised of 6 sensational creations that reinforce the pleasures of self-care while facing daily uncertainties. This light and fresh skincare kit guarantees an instant healthy glow and gives you a boost from morning to night!
This vibrant yellow, lemon-curd-looking texture is actually a fruit acid face mask! Stable at low pH, Emulium® Dolcea MB creates its gourmand and thick texture while Glypure 70 and Lemon Secrets™ give a renewed and luminous complexion. Simply apply on dry skin, leave on for 10 min, and then rinse.
No more shiny skin with this soft, formidable cream that mattifies the skin without drying it out. This creamy texture penetrates quickly and leaves a comfortable and matte film. Cytobiol™ Iris A² helps to fight against shine and reduce imperfections while Plurol® Stearique MB provides a dry, powdery after-feel.
Other body areas such as the décolleté, back, and shoulders can also suffer from imperfections. This ultra-fluid bi-gel, made possible with Emulfree® CBG MB, has been specifically designed to purify these areas without leaving a sticky or greasy film, so it’s easy to get dressed after applying.
Pimples are a thing of the past thanks to this natural transparent gel! Cytobiol™ Iris A² and Original Extract™ Lemon Bio help purify the skin and minimize breakouts. Plus, its texture is well-adapted for a pump or roll-on applicator for an ultra-targeted application.
This fluid texture is ideal for fighting imperfections! It spreads easily, penetrates quickly, and leaves a very soft, thin protective film, as acne-prone skin also needs protection. Emulium® Dolcea MB, which has demonstrated its moisturizing properties, and high quantities of propanediol, guarantee hydration. Plus, the skin is purified and clearer thanks to Cytobiol™ Iris A² and Original Extract™ Lemon Bio.
Wake up every morning with perfect skin, thanks to this multi-functional night cream! Formulated with Emulium® Mellifera MB, this texture penetrates quickly and leaves a fine, comforting protective film on the skin. Cytobiol™ Iris A² and Gatuline® Renew form an active combo that leaves the skin clear, matte, smoothed, and hydrated.
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Click here for more information or samples on the featured ingredients and formulas.
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Expression lines (i.e., fine lines) are the result of thousands of daily involuntary microcontractions of the facial muscles. They become more visible and deeper as we age and are a real concern for people who want to maintain a youthful appearance. Gatuline® Expression effectively prevents the appearance of expression lines and visibly smooths the skin surface. This fast-acting ingredient redefines both the eye and lip contours in record time.
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Natural, safe, preservative-free extract of a non-GMO plant grown in a protected environment. Acmella oleracea is a plant with small yellow flowers commonly used as a spice and anesthetic agent in Madagascar, from which it is sourced. In fact, its unique numbing effect led to its popularity in cocktails and the nickname “buzz buttons.” This anesthetic effect is also what drew the attention of Gattefossé researchers. Other grade available: Gatuline® Expression (INCI : Alcohol (and) Water (and) Acmella Oleracea Extract)
In vitro and in vivo tests prove Gatuline® Expression AF
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exerts a powerful, reversible myorelaxant effect; visibly smooths crow’s-feet after just one day of treatment;
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clearly reduces vertical wrinkles (i.e., bar code wrinkles and bitterness folds);
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redefines lip contour, making it sharper, finer, and more intense;
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Exerts myorelaxant effect
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Yields instantly visible results
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Provides natural alternative to injections
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Erases expression lines
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Reduces bar code wrinkles and bitterness folds
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Smooths and redesigns the lip contour
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Recurves Cupid’s bow
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Anti-aging products
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Anti wrinkle care
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Eye and lip contour treatments
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Capsule filling and molding are common technologies suitable for powder, liquid, and semisolid formulations. Atomized lipid excipients are used as lubricants, glidants, and flow aids for capsule filling with powders. Semisolid and liquid lipid excipients are mainly used as solubility enhancers in hard and soft capsules.
\n
\n
Advantages of lipid excipients for capsule filling and molding:
\n
\n
high compatibility with capsule shell due to low impurity levels
\n
liquid and semisolid vehicles suitable for highly potent drugs
\n
high drug loading
\n
low melt viscosity and rapid solidification after molding
\n
chemical inertness, preventing incompatibilities with other excipients or with drug
\n
\n
Range of functional excipients for capsule filling/molding:
Gelucire® 43/01—matrix-forming agent for protection of actives sensitive to oxidation, humidity, or light
\n
\n
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Oily vehicle / suspending agent\n
\n
Geloil® SC—vehicle for suspensions in soft gelatin capsules
\n\n
\n
\n
\n
\n
Optimum process temperature
\n
Gattefossé can help you determine the optimum process temperature and cooling rate for capsule filling and molding.
\n
\n
Contact Gattefossé to get thermorheogram.
\n
\n
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Depuis près de 140 ans, notre stratégie d’investissement continu dans la recherche, le développement et les applications a stimulé notre capacité à innover. Nous mettons à disposition de nos clients notre savoir-faire, notre expérience et notre connaissance approfondie des marchés cosmétique et pharmaceutique pour leur permettre de répondre très tôt aux attentes des consommateurs.
Nous nous engageons vis-à-vis de la planète, de nos clients et de nos partenaires à réduire notre empreinte globale et à toujours encourager des rapports humains durables et éthiques, sans aucune concession sur la qualité de nos produits. C’est par notre volonté de partager nos connaissances et de favoriser l’innovation dans nos domaines d’activité que nous entendons faire la différence.
Notre dévouement au service de nos clients internationaux transparaît dans toutes nos actions. Nos équipes locales offrent à nos clients une assistance technique et commerciale sur mesure et entretiennent avec eux des liens solides et durables au quotidien.
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When formulating with Emulium® Illustro, choosing the right emollients is essential to prevent stability issues. Discover how to select them in this video!
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Emulium® Illustro is a water-in-oil emulsifier that is highly compatible with pigments and UV filters, but also with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients. PEG-free and COSMOS approved, this new ingredient perfectly meets consumer requirements in terms of naturality and formulator expectations in performance and flexibility.
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Today, there is growing consumer interest for silicone-free, natural color cosmetics and sunscreens.
\n
\n
Gattefossé has applied its strong knowledge in lipid chemistry to the development of Emulium® Illustro. Six years of research and development have been necessary to create this performant and flexible emulsifier, that can replace water-in-silicone textures.
When formulating with Emulium® Illustro, choosing the right emollients is essential to prevent stability issues. Discover how to select them in this video!
Designed principally for pigmented formulations, Emulium® Illustro helps to disperse pigments and UV filters and obtain homogeneous and stable formulas.
Compatible with a wide range of cosmetic ingredients
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From ultra fluid to thick textures
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Color cosmetics: foundations, concealers, BB and CC creams, highlighters, eye and lip products
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Sun care: organic and inorganic sunscreens
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Skin care
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Natural, organic and vegan formulations
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