Our lipid chemistry is based on the transformation of vegetable oils, waxes, and fatty acids. Gattefossé has long been committed to a responsible sourcing of raw materials. In addition to being a member of the Round table on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), the company supports cooperatives and oil producers involved in sustainable production processes. The raw materials that make up our cosmetic ingredients are all certified “mass balance” or “segregated.”
An optimized LBF enables solubilization of the entire therapeutic dose and maintains the drug in solubilized state throughout the digestion process.
\nTo speed up LBF development, we have produced tools to guide you at each stage of development:
\n1 – methods for saturation solubility screening
\n2 – database of solubility of drugs in common pharmaceutical excipients
\n3 – methods for miscibility and dispersability testing
\n4 – miscibility table
\n5 – in vitro lipolysis procedure
\n6 – guideline for preclinical studies
\nA systematic approach is recommended to develop lipid-based formulations:
\nA Systematic Approach to Lipid-Based Formulation Development for a Poorly Soluble API, Fenofibrate
\n Masumi Dave, M.S., Jason Le Pree, Ph.D., R.Ph.
\n Download the poster
Objectives:
\nDetermine the solubility of the drug during a simulated digestion process.
\nAsk for our detailed method
\nIn 1880, Louis Gattefossé founded the company in France.
This “avant-garde” entrepreneur always believed in building strong relationships with his customers. He nurtured “curiosity”, a quality that was to prove precious for the future of his enterprise.
\n\n
\n
\n
Later, Louis’ son René-Maurice Gattefossé, headed the company.
Inventive and visionary, he brought his scientific methodology to the business.
\nCreator of Perfumes and Scents and inventor of aromatherapy, he has marked the history of Gattefossé through his progressive thinking.
\nIn succession, Henri-Marcel Gattefossé, his son, widened the scope of the business by adding plant extracts to the catalogue. Passionate about science and people, he worked closely with researchers in hospitals and universities around the world.
Through these scientific contacts, Henri-Marcel later created the Académie des Alpilles, bringing together all of the stakeholders of Les Journées Galéniques de St-Rémy de Provence, which provides opportunities for sharing knowledge with the global scientific community.
\n\n
This institution, placed under the scope of Gattefossé Foundation, is still active more than forty years later and is internationally recognized.
\n\n
Emile Mahler, creative engineer and chemist, joined the company in 1937 when he married René-Maurice’s daughter. In the following years, his work on lipids, emulsion technologies and their applications to formulation development has greatly influenced the company’s orientations and long-term development. Gattefossé’s current know-how in oleochemistry finds its origins in Emile Mahler’s work and studies.
\nEmulsions are, by definition, unstable systems and require a surfactant. To enable simple formulation of stable emulsion system, Gattefossé offers a range of self-emulsifying bases consisting of all-in-one excipients. Due to their specific compositions combining lipophilic and hydrophilic surfactants with texture agents, they provide stable emulsions whatever the type and concentration of oil.
\nEmulsions are traditionally produced by separately preparing oily and aqueous phases and then mixing them together. Critical process parameters are temperature, blade type, mixing speed and duration, and cooling conditions. Emulsions with Gelot™ 64 are obtained in this way.
\nA one-pot process is an interesting alternative whereby all ingredients are mixed in a single step. This is achievable with a powerful emulsifier like Tefose® 63 at a minimum concentration of 12%.
\nA cold process might be necessary for heat-sensitive drugs. In such cases, the best emulsifier is Plurol® Diisostearique, which permits formulation at room temperature.
\nEmulsification is obtained when mixing and heating yield enough energy to disperse the oil droplets in the aqueous phase, or vice versa. Thus, to obtain a stable emulsion, mixing conditions need to be carefully defined during development and scale-up.
\nOur formulators have worked on scale-up—from lab- to pilot-scale production—with different formulations and equipment.
\nAsk for our Dermacare brochure
\n
\n","box_links":[{"link":false,"title":"Techchat","external_link":"https://youtu.be/xXM07_ewebE","image":"https://www.gattefosse.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/04/tech-chat6-322x216.jpg"}],"useful_links":[{"text_link":"Excipients for optimizing texture","link":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/pharmaceuticals-content/excipients-for-optimizing-texture-and-sensorial-experience/","external_link":""},{"text_link":"Range of excipients for topical drug delivery","link":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/pharmaceuticals-content/range-of-products/","external_link":""}],"":false,"content_not_translated":false,"equivalent_fr":false,"equivalent_en":false},"_links":{"self":[{"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/pages/2928"}],"collection":[{"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/pages"}],"about":[{"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/types/page"}],"author":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/users/9"}],"replies":[{"embeddable":true,"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/comments?post=2928"}],"version-history":[{"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/pages/2928/revisions"}],"wp:attachment":[{"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/media?parent=2928"}],"wp:term":[{"taxonomy":"category","embeddable":true,"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/categories?post=2928"},{"taxonomy":"post_tag","embeddable":true,"href":"https://www.gattefosse.com/fr/wp-json/wp/v2/tags?post=2928"}],"curies":[{"name":"wp","href":"https://api.w.org/{rel}","templated":true}]}},"lipid-chemistry":{"id":1172,"date":"2017-03-13T08:44:02","date_gmt":"2017-03-13T08:44:02","guid":{"rendered":"http://217.109.87.212/front/?page_id=1172"},"modified":"2019-05-28T16:54:06","modified_gmt":"2019-05-28T14:54:06","slug":"lipid-chemistry","status":"publish","type":"page","link":"https://www.gattefosse.com/corporate-content/lipid-chemistry/","title":{"rendered":"Lipid chemistry"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":1,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_yoast_wpseo_title":"Lipid chemistry | Producing functional ingredients | Gattefossé","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":"Over the last 70 years, Gattefossé has developed unique expertise in lipid chemistry, based on the transformation of vegetable oils, waxes, and fatty acids."},"categories":[48],"tags":[],"acf":{"component":"PageGenericContentCorporate","title":"Lipid chemistry","content":"
Our lipid chemistry is based on the transformation of vegetable oils, waxes, and fatty acids. Gattefossé has long been committed to a responsible sourcing of raw materials. In addition to being a member of the Round table on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO), the company supports cooperatives and oil producers involved in sustainable production processes. The raw materials that make up our cosmetic ingredients are all certified “mass balance” or “segregated.”
\n\n
We thank you for your interest in our company. In this section, you can find the more recent press releases, pictures and videos published by Gattefossé and its Foundation.
\nDo you have any questions? We would be happy to answer your media inquiries. | \nClaudine Blondet press@gattefosse.com | \n
\n
\n\n
Gattefossé develops, manufactures and sells specialty ingredients for the personal care and pharmaceutical industries and offers a strong expertise in formulation for both of these activities.
\nGattefossé markets its products in more than 60 countries through 12 affiliated companies and a network of agents and distributors who provide technical and marketing support. Innovation, ethics, quality and long-term stability are the company key-drivers since the beginning.
\nGattefossé was founded in Lyon, France in 1880 by Mr. Louis Gattefossé to whom building strong relationship with customers was a priority. The company remains a family-run, independent business, and now employs more than 300 people worldwide.
\n\n\n
Click on the pictures to download HD portraits of our Chairman, Jacques Moyrand and our CEO, Eduardo De Purgly.
\nCopyright Véronique Védrenne
\n\n\n
April 15th, 2019 – GOLD rating for Gattefossé on EcoVadis
\n
April 3rd, 2019 – Gattefossé receives the Gold Innovation award for Emulium® Illustro
\n
March 9th, 2019 – Definicire™ receives PCHi Fountain Awards 2019 in China
\n
February 19th, 2019 – Gattefossé launches its new W/O emulsifier at in-cosmetics global
\n
December 17th, 2018 – COSMET’AGORA 2019, a new edition for Gattefossé’s tool INSPIRATION
\n
October 23, 2018 – Gattefossé North America announces the recipient of the 2018 Award for Excellence
\n
September 19th, 2018 – Gattefossé launches its first hair care
\n ingredient at in-cosmetics Latin America
\n
July 10th 2018 – Gattefossé renews its ISO 9001 certification and achieves the 2015 version
\n
June 5th 2018 – Official launch of ERI 360° Label
\n\n
\n
April 10th 2018 – Meet the #ConnectedGenerations at in-cosmetics global 2018
\n
March 29th 2018 – EnergiNius™: Gattefossé new launch at in-cosmetics Amsterdam 2018
\n
February 20th 2018 – Gattefossé Asia Pacific achieves ISO9001: 2015 certification
\n
January 25th 2018 – Gattefossé launches INSPIRATION tool
\n
November 10th 2017 – Gattefossé North America announces the recipient of the 2017 Award for Excellence
\n
November 6th 2017 – SIO-ADM, Gattefossé partner to bring USP/NF grade highly refined oils to North America
\n
October 18th 2017 – GATTEFOSSÉ and CYTOO join forces to investigate the biological effects of screen-emitted light on skin
\n
September 20th 2017 – The Gattefossé foundation supports two Health establishments
\n
July 28th 2017- Gattefossé Canada and Connect Chemicals announce distribution agreement
\n
April 26th 2017- Inauguration of our North America Technical Center of Excellence
Contact us to receive the Press Dossier
\n\n\n
Download the HD picture HD picture
\n
March 29th 2017 – Show true emotions at in-cosmetics London: two ingredients targeting the eye and lip contours
\n
March 21th 2017 – Gattefossé Foundation promotes the training of healthcare personnel in the use of Madagascan essential oils in Madagascar
\n
March 6th 2017 – Gattefossé certified RSPO Mass Balance
\n
February 8th 2017 – New launch: Gatuline® Link n Lift – Redesign the eye contour
\n
\n","box_links":[{"link":"https://www.gattefosse.com/pharmaceuticals-special-content/corporate-expertise/our-expertise/","title":"Our expertise","external_link":"","image":"https://www.gattefosse.com/wordpress/wp-content/uploads/2017/07/our-expertise-288x164px.jpg"}],"useful_links":[{"text_link":"Gattefossé on Twitter","link":false,"external_link":"https://twitter.com/GattefosseGroup"},{"text_link":"Gattefossé on Linkedin","link":false,"external_link":"https://www.linkedin.com/company/gattefosse"},{"text_link":"Gattefossé on Youtube","link":false,"external_link":"https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCUTYQ7BQ4odr5tvtsiReMlg"}],"":false,"content_not_translated":false,"equivalent_fr":false,"equivalent_en":false,"introduction":"We thank you for your interest in our company. In this section, you can find the more recent press releases, pictures and videos published by Gattefossé and its Foundation.
A high-purity solvent and powerful solubilizer associated with skin penetration enhancement in topical dosage forms.
\n","names_kv":[{"keys":"USP NF Name","value":"Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether
\n"},{"keys":"EP Name","value":"Diethylene glycol monoethyl ether
\n"},{"keys":"UNII Code (FDA)","value":"A1A1I8X02B
\n"},{"keys":"Preferred Substance Name (FDA)","value":"DIETHYLENE GLYCOL MONOETHYL ETHER
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5 things you need to know about natural formulating"},"content":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"excerpt":{"rendered":"","protected":false},"author":17,"featured_media":0,"parent":0,"menu_order":0,"comment_status":"closed","ping_status":"closed","template":"","meta":{"_yoast_wpseo_title":"","_yoast_wpseo_metadesc":""},"categories":[56],"tags":[],"acf":{"content_not_translated":true,"equivalent_fr":false,"equivalent_en":false,"component":"PageGenericContentCos","title":"The 5 things you need to know about natural formulating","content":"You’ve heard it before – the natural market is continuing to grow. According to a recent study by Grand View Research1, the global organic personal care market is expected to reach $25B by 2025, with 9% annual growth.
\nThis growth is being driven largely by consumers’ growing focus on health and wellness, by the growing availability of new and better natural products, and by the millennials, who embrace natural and sustainable concepts more than previous generations.
\nCheck our our 5 top things to keep in mind when diving into natural formulating.
\n\n
With so many natural certifications out there, deciding where to start can be a real challenge; but it’s an important first step to guide you through the formulating process. Here we break down the most popular green and natural certifications and claims.
\nFor a list of Gattefossé certified natural ingredients, click here.
\n#2 It’s a moving target
\nWhile just a few yeas ago, natural cosmetics focused strictly on incorporating natural ingredients, today the scope of natural continues to broaden. In recent years, we’ve seen a sharp rise in vegan cosmetics, for example.
\n\n\n\n
We also see companies taking sustainability and corporate social responsibility into account with more focus on creating a product that is good for the environment and society at every step from consumption to sue.
\nLastly, new issues are coming to light every day. Just recently, Hawaii has decided to crack down on sunscreen ingredients that have the potential to harm coral reefs.2
\n\n
All of these considerations are important factors of success in today’s market because millennials are deeply invested in these causes. This generation has a broad view of natural and environmental topics and they are very close to them – they’ve grown up being told that the earth is in danger, that climate change is an imminent problem, that overpopulation and over pollution are having a serious effect on this planet, and as a result, they see it as their responsibility to affect change and they take their beliefs with them into all of their consumption habits from furniture, to clothes, to cosmetics.
\nBy the numbers:
\n\n
Many formulators still believe that formulating natural cosmetics is too difficult, or that natural products can’t meet the aesthetic and active standards of traditional formulation.
\nWhile it’s true that creating an all-natural formulation can limit your ingredient choices, the good news is that as the market for natural products has grown, so has the availability of natural ingredients. Today, one can find excellent natural emulsifiers, actives, surfactants, and even preservatives that deliver activity, sensory experience, and functionality comparable to that of standard ingredients.
\n\n
Since our beginning in 1880, Gattefossé has been a leader in natural and sustainable cosmetic ingredients. Our two areas of expertise, oleochemistry and plant extraction lend themselves to natural solutions.
\nToday, our range consists primarily of certified natural ingredients and our commitment to sustainability is stronger than ever. Our ready-made prototypes and global application labs can also help you on your journey to better natural products.
\nUse our Product Finder to discover natural ingredient solutions or
\n Get in Touch to learn more about how Gattefossé can help.
As consumer interest in natural cosmetics continues to grow, the importance of natural actives as a key part of cosmetic formulations increases as well. Today’s consumer expects powerful efficacy from natural products. The challenge therefore becomes to find extraction methods that are both natural and effective in extracting the key active molecules from plants. NaDES is a new solution, adopted by Gattefossé, to create new, natural, and highly functional active ingredients.
\nWhen extracting active metabolites from plants, some molecules are more challenging than others. Despite perfect solubility in plant tissues, many of these molecules are poorly soluble in water, lipids, and even the most efficient known solvents. Additionally, traditional solvents such as butylene glycol are no longer acceptable to many consumers.
\nToday, there is an important need for green and bio-based solvents that improve sustainability and reduce the impact on the environment.
\n\n
\n
Recently, a new category of solvents has been discovered that is directly inspired by the way in which metabolites are solubilized inside the plant – through eutectic combinations of simple chemicals such as sugars, nitrogen compounds, and organic acids.
\nWorking with researchers from Leiden University, Gattefossé has developed and patented several natural eutectic solvents suitable for use in cosmetics, using all-natural components such as fructose, glycerin, and water. This exciting new class of solvents is natural, safe, and allows us to extract exciting new activity from plants.
\n\n
\n
“A eutectic mixture is defined as a mixture of two or more components which usually do not interact to form a new chemical compound but which, at certain ratios, inhibit the crystallization process of one another resulting in a system having a lower melting point than either of the components.”1
\nA NaDES can be defined as a eutectic mixture formed by a combination of natural molecules with specific molar ratio. At the eutectic ratio, the mixture is a homogenous liquid characterized by a supramolecular structure.
\n\n
\n
Our newest active, Gatuline® Link n Lift takes advantage of NaDES technology to bring improvement to the eye contour – visibly reducing difficult to erase under-eye and tear-trough wrinkles.
\nAs an example, the chart below shows the efficacy results of both traditional and NaDES solvents on Type IV collagen. You can clearly see that, in this case, combining a NaDES solvent with white chestnut flowers yielded the best results.
\n\n
\n
Gattefossé has obtained rights to develop and commercialize cosmetic active ingredients obtained using the highly innovative NaDES technology.
\nNatural, non-toxic and efficient at low temperatures, the NaDES technology is perfectly aligned with the Gattefossé strategy to provide high-performance sustainable ingredients with positive environmental impact.
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According to Mintel, the sales of natural and organic personal care products records a 8.5% growth in 2016 (Vs 2015) in the US natural supermarkets (1). But consumers’ definition about what’s is “natural” is constantly evolving, even deriving towards an exacerbated version of naturality.
\nAnd let’s admit that beauty brands are forced to follow the rhythm.
\n\n
\n
0% perfume, preservatives, silicones, sulfates…
\nThey started to appear more than 10 years ago with suspicions around parabens and since that time, they continue to expand their territory, feeding by growing consumers’ concerns for their health and wellness.
\nWhereas chemical compounds were at the origin of all the worries, targets changed and nowadays, even natural ingredients can be disputed.
\nWhile boundaries between food and skin care blur, diets and lifestyle principles spread to the beauty world, giving birth to new “free from” requirements.
\n\n
\n
\n
One example is the vegan cosmetics.
\nFrom its beginning in the mid. 20th century, the vegan diet never stop expanding. Between 2009 and 2014, the number of followers has been multiplied by 2 in the US, by 3 in the UK.
\nMoreover, more and more consumers are worried about the composition of personal care products, and as a consequence tend to exclude animal based ingredients of their beauty basket. Thus, vegan claims gain popularity. In 2010, Mintel counted 1.5% of skin care launches featuring a mention “suitable for vegetalians”. The percentage reached 3.6% in 2016. (2)
\nAnother diet gets wider echo in cosmetics. Gluten free claims were first dedicated to the food industry, aiming at offering food alternatives for people suffering from celiac diseases or sensitivity to gluten.
\nNevertheless, the growing awareness regarding gluten intolerances gave birth to a more holistic approach for people looking at reducing their consumption, encouraging them to look at beauty products free from the protein even if cosmetics do not contain gluten naturally.
\nThese 2 movements benefited from great media coverage over the last few years as well as celebrities’ endorsement who publicly communicated on the benefits of such diets. We can thus easily think that generation Z will continue to follow the movement.
\n\n
\n
With the rise of allergies prevalence, we may see the global claim “free from allergens” growing.
\nSome products already exist on the truly natural beauty segment. But such claims also raised questions regarding the definition of these “allergens”. What is an allergen and what is not? Isn’t there a risk of downward spiral if everything can be considered as potentially allergenic? Consumers’ education is probably the key.
\nIn a context where naturality has no clear contours anymore, challenge for the formulators will be to navigate within these requirements, finding alternative solutions to match their own functional constraints with consumers’ over-enthusiasm for naturalness, health and wellness.
\n\n
References
\n(1) Mintel report: Natural and organic personal care consumer, US, December 2016
\n(2) Mintel search: skin care products launched 2010 VS 2016
\nAdditional reference: ROSS-FICHTNER R., ROBICHAUD C., Why we will never be free from “free from” claims, Cosmetics & toiletries, july/august 2016, Vol.131, N°6
\n